In Greece, classical civilization threads all aspects of daily life. Broken Ionic columns lie in everyone’s backyard, and the bus maps are written in the language of the philosophers. But Crete, the largest island in
Greece, has more than just a Platonic heritage. Crete was once the heart of the Minoan civilization, a Bronze Age matriarchy that ruled the Mediterranean. Later conquests by the Byzantines, Turks and Venetians diversified the culture. With beaches, fierce local pride, cafes packed with soccer fans, goat farmers, university towns, and a wild mountainous terrain, Crete has something to offer travelers of many styles.
Charming Hania (sometimes spelled Chania) feels like a quintessential European city. Originally an ancient Minoan settlement, Hania later became a port for the Venetian Empire. The Venetians clearly felt homesick, because they filled the central town with pastel-colored stucco buildings and winding, cobbled alleyways reminiscent of Italy.
Most guests stay in one of Hania’s boutique hotels. We, however, found Pension Lena, which consisted of only a few rooms tucked into a restored Turkish building. Buoyant and full of information, Lena gave us a basket of fresh plums from her garden and sat us down for the rundown of Crete. She had decorated the pension with a mix of antiques, creating an eclectic but elegant atmosphere. We had coffee on a rooftop patio with a sliver of a view; the blue Mediterranean sparkling in the distance. It was tempting enough to make us chug our coffee and start exploring.
Hania’s rich history is evident in its architecture. A distinctive Venetian lighthouse sits upon a jetty overlooking the sea while guarding the city. The remains of a large mosque, now an art gallery, stands on the western side of the harbor. Along the Venetian fortress walls is the Naval Museum which provides a seafaring perspective to the island’s history. And inside the Old Town, the Hania Archeological Museum showcases artifacts from the town’s ancient past.
Lena’s is only a fifteen-minute walk from Nea Hora, Hania’s popular sandy beach. There we watched fishermen string lines of octopus to dry in the sun – a grisly, if distinctive, sight. Greek kids splashed in the shallow water while their parents added another layer of bronze to their already copper tans. This more modern sector of Hania can be overrun with package tourists, and other than the beach, it offers little for independent travelers.
Serious beach bums will want to explore Crete’s less urban coast. Hania is a popular departure point for Elafonisi, a pristine islet off the southwest coast of Crete. Buses from Hania arrive daily, dropping loads of daytrippers onto a breathtaking stretch of white sand. Many visitors wade out 100 yards across the clear, shallow water to reach the islet, and then take the bus back to Hania in time for dinner.
We found shopping in Hania to be expensive but high-quality. Artisans sell leather goods, jewelry, and local jams and honeys – a nice change from plaster moulds of the Parthenon and Zeus key chains. We often couldn’t find our way back through the maze of alleys once we had passed a shop, so we made it a point to buy on a whim.
At dusk, we joined the crowds for a leisurely stroll of the waterfront. It seemed the entire population of the city turned out to walk. The harbor restaurants tended to be overpriced, so we had dinner in the Old Town. Housed in an old Turkish bathhouse, Tamam combined traditional Cretan and Turkish food. We had eggplant moussaka, salty white cheese with bread, and a meze platter of assorted appetizers. The mix of cuisines made the meal especially interesting – another testament to Crete’s unique past.
Perched in secluded mountain valleys fifty miles Southwest of Antalya, networks of makeshift, wooden tree shacks are the drawcard novelty of Olympos, providing a rustic and highly unconventional accommodation standard for those willing to live like an Ewok for a night or two.
Arriving fresh from a four day cruise across the Western Mediterranean coast, four nights sleeping under stars and sail were now replaced with a stiff mattress in a tree house – not the most comfortable night’s slumber, but certainly a fine oddity to write home about. Roaming chickens keep you up at night, and moonlight seeps through shonky wood planked walls.
The tree house pensions are popular and generally provide a free buffet dinner. I stayed at the famous Bayrams, but Kadirs is also considered up there with the best of the bunch. For the less budget conscious, a range of more conventional hotels is on offer. I might have opted for the Canada Hotel Cirali if my back pocket allowed for the extravagance.
The ancient Lycians worshiped the fire God, Vulcan, which was most likely due to the impressive naturally occurring phenomenon, the ‘Chimera’ – a series of eternal flames that flare perpetually from a nearby mountainside. Located roughly 15 km outside the Olympos village, we took an evening bus to the site, witnessing the mesmerising natural wonder, it’s red and amber flames sparkling in the dark of night.
Centered in the heart of Olympos coastal national parkland, Olympos is also prime terrain for the environmentally adventurous, conducive to a range of outdoor activities including sea kayaking, mountain biking, rock climbing and trekking, with equipment readily available from various hostels and stores throughout the village.
After secularization, the castle came under private ownership and fell under neglect during the 19th and early 20th Centuries. The original furnishings were sold off and the elaborate gardens decayed. In 1975, the Bavarian government purchased the property and the castle and gardens underwent extensive renovations, reopening to the public in the 1990s. Some of the original furnishings and artwork of the palace were located and placed on exhibit.
One of the most unique qualities of the Schloss is the massive fountain or cascade located behind the main building. The piece was sculpted by Ferdinand Tietz and depicts Hercules and some of his twelve labors. Construction began in the 1760s and in addition to the large fountain, an underground tunnel was required to supply a constant source of water to the sculpture.
Tours of the interior are given in English and German. Visitors can view the period-decorated rooms and inner courtyard. The castle is open to the public Tuesday through Sunday from April to October and closed during the winter. Guided tours are offered daily from 9:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. The castle gardens are open the same months as the main building, but can be toured at no cost. The cascade’s water display is shown every hour from 10:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. from May through October. It is worth watching the water dance among the sculptures while visiting the palace.
In the summer, the castle hosts classical music concerts. In early June a chamber music festival, known as Spring in the Schloss Seehof, is held. A second music festival, Sommerserenaden Schloss Seehof, takes place in August.


