All of the great fantasy tales have their foundation in some English myth or historical event from the medieval age. For those of us who fell in love with the legends of Camelot, read the Lord of the Rings over and over again and watched breathlessly as armies clashed in modern movies like Braveheart, there can be only one nation that can bring these dreams to life: the United Kingdom.There are many places to visit if dreaming of knights is your passion. And when planning your tour, be sure to put Durham on your list. Set on a peninsula above the River Wear just south of the Scottish border, the town of Durham is drenched in old English charm and wonder.
Durham Cathedral is the heart and soul of the city, even now, and fittingly enough was the first building erected in Durham more than 1000 years ago. Monks from the island of Lindisfarne arrived here carrying the remains of Saint Cuthbert, a renowned Middle Age healer, and found that the hill atop the peninsula provided the glory and protection they wanted for the resting place of their saint. Less than 100 years later, the Normans invaded England in 1066 and wrested control of the nation from Harold. They promptly marched up to Durham and built a great castle to demonstrate their dominion over all of England. Soon the castle and the cathedral, built atop the modest home the Lindisfarne monks had built, faced each other regally across the Palace Green. The bishop, appointed by the Normans, commanded extraordinary powers as Prince Bishop by Divine Providence and made his home in the castle. Under the powers of the Church and the Bishop, Durham rose to be one of the greatest towns in England from the 13th to the 19th century.
For travellers, Durham is a good place to stop before heading north into Scotland (or returning). The town escaped the ravages of the Industrial Revolution, despite the coal mines prevalent in the area, and remains to this day a pristine, wooded and walled town hugging the banks of the slow moving River Wear. Since Durham University was founded in the late 1800s, the town has seen an infusion of young blood each year that contrasts smoothly with the great walls of the castle and the silent woods along the Wear. To accommodate young tastes, pubs and restaurants have popped up along the river and the marketplace at the foot of the cathedral. Rooms and small apartments are available during the summer for rock bottom prices — landlords have to make due when the kids leave, so summer might be a great time to spend a few days in Durham.
Both the cathedral and the castle are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and are open to the public. It is actually possible to stay in the castle during the summer months. The remains of Saint Cuthbert are on display in the cathedral and the Great Hall of the impregnable Durham Castle is also open to visitors during the day. The River Wear has boat operators that allow for couples to take a quick row under the bridges and parkways and paths line the river from one part of town to the other.
Durham is a small town and it is possible to walk the whole of it in just half a
day. All of the major sites — the river, the cathedral and castle, the bridges and marketplace — are very close together and can be visited at a leisurely pace. In the surrounding areas are other Norman, Anglo-Saxon and Roman sites open to visitors, such as Barnard Castle, a marketplace town built around the remains of a 12th century castle anda classic English villa just south of the castle. Just outside of Durham is the Beamish Open Air Museum, where the history of the area comes to life in historic replicas of homes, schools, mine shafts and working pubs (!).
The best way to enjoy this place is with 2-3 days (maybe more) of quiet walking around the almost legendary sites of ages past, with a good hearty English dinner and ale at the end of the day. To really punctuate your Durham visit, I suggest a little time spent in a rowboat on the river. Sir Walter Scott did just this several hundred years ago, and when he stopped on one walk to stare up at the cathedral, he wrote these lines, carved into the stone of Prebend Bridge:
“Grey towers of Durham
Yet well I love thy mixed and massive piles
Half church of God, half castle ‘gainst the Scot
And long to roam those venerable aisles
With records stored of deeds long since forgot.”
The Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) classification is reserved for the highest quality Italian wines. There are a limited number of wines that fall into this category and let’s just say you pay accordingly for this type of quality.
Sangiovese – Easily the most famous Italian varietal, Sangiovese wines taste of cherry, earth and cedar. Chiantis are made from a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot grapes.
Trebbiano – This is the most common white varietal planted in Italy and is called Ugni Blanc in France. Some of the best Trebbiano is grown in Abruzzo and Lazio. They produce food-friendly, light wines.
Once a dilapidated chateau, the newly remodeled (2006) castle, in the town of Mcely has been reconstructed using “green principles” such as a heating system that relies on the combustion of waste wood chips! In addition, captured rain water is used for watering the English garden, energy is derived from renewable sources, and food waste is used to support local farm production. They use candles in many public rooms instead of electric lights and ask guests to conserve water as if it was a rare spice. It’s nice to be able to say that there are too many “Eco” aspects of this hotel to list!
If you are staying in Prague and want a 2-3 day getaway into Old Bohemia, then the Mcely Chateau is the place for you. Only a one hour drive from Prague, this is a local weekend hot spot. Book in advance (there are only 23 rooms and suites) and prepare to be spoiled! This retreat boasts too many activities to enjoy in one stay. The hotel comes complete with a spa center, afternoon tea, Alchemist Club (17th century cellar serving elixirs), 5 star restaurant, game park, and horseback riding. You may not know which to explore first!
The city is very popular among tourists and thus is easily accessible via bus provided by various travel agencies. However, to avoid the masses of tourists, a day trip to Rothenburg is best during the morning or evening. In general, the city is most popular during the summer months. Try to visit in late April or early May for cooler weather and fewer crowds. The city can be accessed by train, as Rothenburg’s station is but a short walk from the city center. Be sure to buy tickets for Rothenburg ob der Tauber, as Germany has many towns named Rothenburg. Many visitors rent cars and drive to the city, cruising along the famous Romantic Road. Either way, Rothenburg is easily accessible and very pedestrian friendly.
A speciality of the city is the Schneeballen (snowballs), a pastry made of fried dough and dusted with powdered sugar or dipped in chocolate. Many bakeries lure hungry visitors with their window displays of Schneeballen and other sweet treats.
St. Jakobskirche, on Klostergasse, is the most famous church in Rothenburg, most notably for its 15th Century wooden altar made by Würzburg sculptor, Tilman Riemenschneider. It is exquisitely carved and the earliest piece attributed to the artist. There is a small entrance fee and English tours are available at the church every Saturday at 3:00 p.m.
Toys Museum on Hofbronnengasse. The largest private collection of toys in the country is on display here, from doll houses to model trains. The Imperial City Museum, near St. Jakob’s, houses art and artifacts from Rothenburg’s past. All manner of items from the centuries old city can be seen here.


